Enka-Candler in Photographs: Legacy and Future

When most people think of Buncombe County in North Carolina, they picture downtown Asheville and the River Arts District, with little thought to neighboring Candler. Sandwiched between Asheville and the westward artery to Canton, a historic mill town in economic flux, Candler possesses a long and evolving history. This month, photographer and area resident Bob Ware presents Enka-Candler: Byways and Crossroads, a new exhibition on view at the Ferguson Family YMCA through October 30. His elegant work fosters a careful reexamination of this overlooked community and dares to dream about its future.

In honor of Bob’s exhibition, our September travel story places the ArtsvilleUSA crew squarely in the heart of Southwest Buncombe County for a Sunday afternoon drive—remember those? We made time to trade stories and watch the natural beauty of the countryside speed by, passing barns, rail fences, and sloe-eyed horses without venturing more than a mile or so from the main drag of Smokey Park Highway. We loved seeing whimsical signs for Bunny Trail and Haviture Way, where scores of roadway spurs wind around closely spaced trees before heading toward Hominy Creek.

What you’ll see driving through Candler is just a prelude to what’s to come. Recent developments at Pisgah State Park, a recently approved master plan impacting Asheville-Buncombe Technical Community College, and a new interchange at I-40 and Liberty Road in Candler are in the works. With so much change in the air, the time has come for renewed commitment toward the creative communities of Enka, Candler, and neighboring West Asheville. As artists move farther away from Asheville’s pricey downtown and into more affordable surroundings, these communities must find ways to engage and serve their new residents. We dream of a community center where artists can meet, discuss projects, and exhibit their work or a visitor's center that points tourists to local talent.

For now, pack your snacks, jump in your car, and head to Candler for a semi-rural road trip through Western North Carolina, where we pay homage to the generational families with treasured insights into Candler's history and dream about what the future might hold.

The Iconic Enka Clock Tower

Enka, a small village on the edge of Candler, has a history inseparable from its one-time status as the nation’s largest producer of rayon. Incorporated in 1928, The American Enka Company once employed over 3,000 workers who timed their days by its now historic clock tower. Years ago, local citizens rallied when Amazon warehouse plans included the demolition of the clock tower. The community’s “Save the Clock Tower” campaign convinced developers to scrap their plans and preserve the clock for future generations.

Broken Antler Barn

This handsome barn belonged to five generations of land-owning families who still farm the surrounding acres. Visible from Reeves Cove Road at the intersection of Maynard Road, the barn also marks the spot of a recent and lengthy legal battle between residents and a new condominium project. While the project proceeds, community input has spurred significant changes favoring the preservation of the land. Travelers passing Broken Antler Barn should stop at the adjacent farms for fresh meat, produce, and flowers.

Gitter Done Lane

No road trip through Candler would be complete without a drive down Gitter Done Lane, an example of Appalachia’s penchant for great storytelling and easy sense of humor. Find this aptly named, tongue-in-cheek artery a few hundred yards off Case Cove Road and follow it to the affectionately dubbed Pop Walker Road, another canopied byway. Mailboxes mark access points to the area’s other amusingly named crossroads.

Mount Pisgah and Pisgah View State Park

Candler’s most prominent vista is the one approaching Mount Pisgah. Soon, that view will become part of Pisgah View State Park, a recent development project expected to open in 2025. The center of the developing park is Pisgah View Ranch, once a privately owned property famous for its equestrian trails, rental cabins, and rejuvenating atmosphere. Named after the biblical Mount Pisgah, where Moses stood as God showed him the Promised Land, Asheville’s Mount Pisgah rises just over a mile above sea level and is perhaps Buncombe County’s most treasured peak. Blanketed by a high-elevation deciduous forest, the distinctive landmark is a favorite destination for hikers, climbers, and photographers.

Art collector George Vanderbilt chose a spot on Mount Pisgah for a summer retreat, preferring the Buckspring Lodge over the formality of the Vanderbilt Estate in the warmer months. While the Buckspring Lodge is gone, tourists can stay in the nearby Pisgah Inn for a similar experience. The mountain sits near the conjunction of Haywood, Henderson, and Transylvania Counties, connected by the spine of the Blue Ridge Parkway. A serpentine byway—Highway 151—rises up to the Parkway from Candler through an overarching forest. This drive is a favorite in the fall as the leaves change colors.

Farms and Pastures

This weathered fence post topped by goldenrod flowers recalls The Story of Ferdinand, a children’s tale about a gentle bull. An old vine-covered barn stands to one side of McPhee Road, while a small sloping pasture fills the view from the other side. Stay in one of the area’s nature-inspired bed and breakfasts for a restful retreat, or rent an outdoor venue for a picturesque celebration. Don’t miss leaf season in Candler, where seldom-discovered adventures wait. Walk the Greenway and trails, visit the North Carolina Arboretum, and stop by local farmers markets before taking Sand Hill Road to neighboring West Asheville, where resident artists work, live, and play.

See the Exhibition: Enka-Candler: Byways and Crossroads

Creative spaces, galleries, and centers for cultural exchange are just part of our vision for the rebirth of Candler and the area west of West Asheville. A visitors’ center could point tourists toward local landmarks and serve our area schools with in-depth art and theater programs. For now, let Bob’s exhibition and our travelogue guide you toward Bent Creek hiking paths, well-manicured sports fields, and our beloved YMCA. Join us in our timely conversation on the future of Enka and Candler by visiting Bob Ware’s exhibition, Enka-Candler: Byways and Crossroads, at the Ferguson Family YMCA through October 30.

For more on Candler's history, attend the exhibition’s community discussion at the Enka-Candler Library on Oct. 1, 2024, 3:30 - 5 p.m. EST. Hosted by photographer and professor emeritus Bob Ware, the discussion zooms in on Candler's history through the lens of his narrative photography. The exhibition and discussion are free and open to the public. For more information, please visit the Enka-Candler Library’s website here.

This article was written in collaboration with Bob Ware. All photos published with permission of Bob Ware.